333ITINERARIES

Three-week routes, with where to stay and what to book

The turquoise Balos lagoon on Crete seen from above
The Balos lagoon, Crete. Photo: jarekgrafik · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

Greece in 21 days

Athens to Crete by car and ferry. Ancient sites, mountain monasteries and a gorge on the mainland, then two Cycladic islands and Crete, balanced with slow beach days.

Best months
May to June, or September to October. July and August are hot and busy, and some island hotels close from November to March.
Pace
Active days in the mountains and on Crete, slow days on Naxos and in Nafplio. You change base every one to four nights.
Getting around
A rental car for the mainland loop, ferries between the islands, and a car again on Crete.

The Shorts, by region

Mainland GreeceAthens, Delphi, Meteora and Zagori. See the stops.

Nafplio and the CycladesNafplio, Naxos and Santorini. See the stops.

CreteKnossos, Chania, the Samaria Gorge, Balos and Elafonisi. See the stops.

The route

Slow daysActive days

  1. Days 1 to 3

    Athens

    The Acropolis at sunset seen through trees from Philopappos Hill
    The Acropolis at sunset. Photo: leonhard_niederwimmer · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Slow

    Go up to the Acropolis right at opening, before the heat and the crowds, then the Acropolis Museum. Wander Plaka and the white houses of Anafiotika, and watch the sunset from Lycabettus Hill.

    Take an afternoon trip to the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion for sunset over the sea. Pick up the rental car on your way out of Athens on day 4.

    Acropolis and museum tourCape Sounion sunset tripMore things to do in Athens

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Athens on Expedia

  2. Day 4

    Delphi

    The round Tholos temple at the sanctuary of Athena in Delphi, with mountains behind
    The Tholos at Delphi. Photo: arzumanidis · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Slow

    The ancient oracle on the slopes of Mount Parnassus: the Temple of Apollo, the theatre and stadium, and the museum with the bronze Charioteer. Stay the night, so you can visit early before the tour buses arrive.

    The mountain village of Arachova is 15 minutes away for dinner.

    Guided walk with entry ticketTicket with audio tourMore things to do in Delphi

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Delphi on Expedia

  3. Days 5 and 6

    Meteora

    The Holy Trinity monastery on top of a sheer rock pillar at Meteora
    Holy Trinity monastery, Meteora. Photo: anestiev · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Active

    Monasteries on top of giant rock pillars. Hike the old footpaths between them, and catch the sunset from the viewpoints above Kastraki. Each monastery closes one day a week, so check before you go, and cover your shoulders and knees.

    Meteora sunset tourMore things to do in Meteora

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Meteora (Kalambaka) on Expedia

  4. Days 7 and 8

    Zagori

    An old arched stone bridge over a green river in Zagori
    Stone bridge in Zagori. Photo: shogun · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Active

    Stone villages, arched stone bridges and the Vikos Gorge, one of the deepest gorges in the world. Hike from Monodendri down into the gorge, then cool off with rafting or a swim in the ice-cold Voidomatis river.

    Day 9 is the longest drive of the trip: about 430 km to Nafplio, roughly 5 hours, almost all on the motorway over the Rio–Antirrio bridge.

    Vikos Gorge guided hikeRafting and more things to do in Zagori

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Zagori on Expedia

  5. Days 9 and 10

    Nafplio

    The Bourtzi sea castle in the bay of Nafplio with snowy mountains behind
    Bourtzi castle, Nafplio. Photo: sofiapapageorge · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Slow

    An old harbour town with marble streets, the Bourtzi sea castle and the Palamidi fortress (999 steps, or drive up). Take a day trip to Mycenae and to the theatre of Epidaurus, which you can easily drive to yourself.

    On day 11, drop the car in Athens or Piraeus and take the ferry to Naxos.

    Mycenae and Epidaurus tourMore things to do in Nafplio

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Nafplio on Expedia

  6. Days 11 to 13

    Naxos

    A white chapel and whitewashed houses on a lane in Naxos
    Whitewashed lanes on Naxos. Photo: tho-ge · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Slow

    The big, green Cycladic island: the Portara gate at sunset, long sandy beaches like Plaka and Agios Prokopios, and mountain villages like Halki and Apiranthos. Hike up Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades, for the views.

    Cooking class, Koufonisia cruise and more on Naxos

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Naxos on Expedia

  7. Days 14 to 16

    Santorini

    White houses of Oia above the blue caldera of Santorini, with flowers
    Oia above the caldera, Santorini. Photo: Michelle_Maria · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Active and slow

    Hike the caldera path from Fira to Oia (about 10 km, go early), take a boat to the volcano and the hot springs, and watch the sunset from Oia, or from Imerovigli for fewer crowds.

    Volcano and hot springs cruiseCatamaran cruises and more in Santorini

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Santorini on Expedia

  8. Day 17

    Heraklion and Knossos

    The reconstructed north entrance of the Minoan palace of Knossos
    The palace of Knossos. Photo: leonhard_niederwimmer · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Slow

    A fast ferry from Santorini brings you to Crete. Rent a car again, see the Minoan palace of Knossos, and visit the Heraklion Archaeological Museum for its frescoes.

    Knossos skip-the-line tourMore things to do in Crete

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Heraklion on Expedia

  9. Days 18 to 21

    Chania

    The Venetian lighthouse at the entrance of Chania harbour with waves
    The Venetian lighthouse, Chania. Photo · Pixabay Content License · Pixabay

    Active

    Chania is the base for Crete’s highlights. Hike the Samaria Gorge (16 km, open roughly May to October), take the boat to the Balos lagoon and Gramvousa, and drive to Elafonisi for its pink sand. Evenings are for the Venetian harbour.

    Fly home from Chania airport.

    Samaria Gorge trekBalos and Gramvousa cruiseElafonisi day tripMore things to do in Chania

    Where to sleep

    Compare these and more stays in Chania on Expedia

Good to know

Driving. Many non-EU licences need an International Driving Permit. The motorways have tolls, and so does the Rio–Antirrio bridge, so keep some cash or a card handy.

Ferries. Book the Piraeus–Naxos, Naxos–Santorini and Santorini–Heraklion ferries early in summer, and check the times again a few days before, because they can change with the weather.

Seasons. The Samaria Gorge is open roughly May to October. Several island hotels close in winter, so check the dates before you book.

About the stays. Each stop has a budget, comfort and luxury pick. Kavalari is adults only and Katikies is for ages 14 and up, so families can pick Hill Suites in Santorini instead. Rooms and rates change, so check current availability and reviews before booking.

What to book first. The Santorini caldera hotels, the summer ferries and the Samaria Gorge trip fill up first.

Photo credits