Japan in 21 days
Tokyo to Osaka by way of the mountains. Big cities, a Fuji lake town and Alpine trails, balanced with relaxing days.
- Best months
- Late March to May, or October to mid-November. Kamikochi is only open from mid-April to mid-November.
- Pace
- Three active stretches, the rest relaxing. You move base every two to four nights.
- Getting around
- Shinkansen and local trains between cities, buses in the mountains. You do not need a car.
The route
Relaxing daysActive days
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Days 1 to 4
Tokyo
Relaxing
Shibuya, Asakusa, Shinjuku and the food markets. Get a rechargeable transit card on arrival and keep the first day light.
-
Days 5 and 6
Kawaguchiko
Relaxing
Lakeside town at the foot of Mount Fuji. Easy lake walks, a cable car for the view, hot-spring baths and, in clear weather, Fuji reflected in the water. Stay at a lakeside inn with a view if you can, and keep the days flexible in case of cloud.
-
Days 7 to 9
Matsumoto and Kamikochi
Active
Matsumoto’s black castle, then a day or two of easy to medium walks in Kamikochi, a high Alpine valley with a clear river and mountain views. Check the opening dates before you plan around it.
-
Days 10 and 11
Takayama and Shirakawa-go
Active
An Edo-era old town and morning markets, then the thatched farmhouse village of Shirakawa-go. It gets crowded on weekends and in snow season, so go early.
-
Days 12 and 13
Kanazawa
Relaxing
Kenroku-en garden, the old geisha district and fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan coast.
-
Days 14 to 17
Kyoto and Nara
Active and relaxing
Fushimi Inari at sunrise, Arashiyama bamboo and a day trip to Nara’s deer park and temples. Keep one day free for tea, gardens or nothing at all.
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Days 18 and 19
Hiroshima and Miyajima
Relaxing
The Peace Memorial Park and museum, then the island of Miyajima with its floating torii gate.
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Days 20 and 21
Osaka
Relaxing
Street food in Dotonbori, the castle and a last evening in the city. Osaka’s airport makes an easy finish to the trip.
Good to know
Seasons. Early June to mid-July is the rainy season, and July and August are hot and humid. Golden Week at the start of May and the New Year break are very busy and prices rise.
Trains and passes. Compare point-to-point tickets with a rail pass before you buy, since a pass often does not pay off on this route. Book seats on the busiest Shinkansen if you travel with large luggage.
Luggage. Send your main bag ahead between cities with a luggage forwarding service and carry a small day bag on the train. Many hotels can arrange it.
Renting a car. Not needed, and not worth it in the cities. Most visitors need an International Driving Permit to drive in Japan, and traffic drives on the left.
What to book first. Reserve your Kyoto stay, a lakeside inn at Kawaguchiko and anything you want in Kamikochi before the rest, since those fill up first.