333ITINERARIES

Three-week routes, with where to stay and what to book

Portugal in 21 days

Porto to the Algarve, north to south, so you finish on the beach. Wine country, waterfalls and cliff walks, balanced with slow days.

Best months
Mid-September to early October, or April to early June.
Pace
Four active stretches, the rest slow.
Getting around
Trains link Porto, Lisbon and the Algarve. A car helps for Peneda-Gerês, the Alentejo and the Fishermen’s Trail area.

The Shorts, by region

Northern PortugalPorto, Peneda-Gerês, the Douro Valley and Coimbra. See the stops.

Central PortugalLisbon, Sintra, Évora and the Fishermen’s Trail. See the stops.

Southern PortugalLagos, Ponta da Piedade, the Seven Hanging Valleys and Benagil cave. See the stops.

The route

Slow daysActive days

  1. Days 1 to 3

    Porto

    Slow

    Riverfront, old town and port cellars. A gentle start while you adjust. Book a river cruise under the six bridges, then cross to Gaia for a port wine cellar tasting.

    Where to sleep

  2. Days 4 and 5

    Douro Valley

    Slow

    Terraced vineyards and river views. Harvest runs from late September into October, and many estates welcome visitors then. Ride the train to Pinhão and sit on the right going out for the best river views.

    Where to sleep

  3. Days 6 to 8

    Peneda-Gerês National Park

    Active

    Portugal’s only national park: waterfalls, mountain lagoons, granite villages and thermal baths. Plan on a car. It is about 1.5 to 2 hours from Porto and public transport is very limited.

    Where to sleep

  4. Day 9

    Coimbra

    Stop on the way south

    A break in the university town before Lisbon. Book a timed ticket for the baroque university library. Coimbra’s fado is heard in silence, so don’t clap.

    Where to sleep

  5. Days 10 to 13

    Lisbon and Sintra

    Slow

    Two city days, a Sintra day trip, and a food or fado evening. Ride tram 28 early, before the queues. In Sintra, book a timed ticket for Pena Palace: entry is by chosen date and time, and late arrivals are turned away. Porto to Lisbon by train takes about 2 hours 40 minutes on the Alfa Pendular.

    Where to sleep

  6. Days 14 and 15

    Évora

    Slow

    Roman temple, historic centre, wine and countryside in the Alentejo. See the Chapel of Bones, and wear comfortable shoes for the cobbles.

    Where to sleep

  7. Day 16

    Fishermen’s Trail

    Active

    A day on the coastal path. The Dunas do Almograve walk on the Rota Vicentina follows the coast past cliffs and empty beaches. The full trail is about 226 km in 13 one-day stages, medium difficulty, with exposed clifftop sections, so keep well back from unfenced edges.

    A day walk with no overnight needed. Base yourself in Évora or on the Algarve and go for the day.

  8. Days 17 to 21

    Lagos and the Algarve

    Active and slow

    Ponta da Piedade cliffs, the Seven Hanging Valleys walk (very busy in summer), then beach days. Benagil cave can only be entered on a licensed guided boat, kayak or paddleboard tour. Swimming in and landing on the inner beach are banned, and larger boats cannot fit inside.

    Where to sleep

Good to know

Without a car. Lisbon to Lagos by train needs a change at Tunes and takes roughly 3.5 to 4 hours.

Renting a car. It helps most for Peneda-Gerês, the Alentejo and the Fishermen’s Trail area, and is not needed in Porto, Lisbon or Lagos. Book early, compare insurance cover, check fuel and toll arrangements, and ask whether returning it somewhere different from pick-up adds a fee.

About the stays. Each stop has a budget, comfort and luxury pick, chosen from current hotel guides. Sintra is a day trip from Lisbon, and the Fishermen’s Trail is a day walk, so neither needs a stay. Rooms and rates change, so check current availability and reviews before booking.

What to book first. Reserve your stays and the Benagil tour before anything else, since those fill up.